Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Mongrel]

Okay, so I bought this monitor to replace the one I've had with the failing backlight. Did some research beforehand - it had good reviews and it had the 16: 10 aspect ratio I wanted at a decent price.

Big problem. It is WAY too fucking bright. I am at 30% brightness and my eyes still hurt. Also, the colour is skewed yellow, but also too cold (so changing the red/green colour sliders to emphasize yellow makes the cold/warm problem worse and reducing the blue slider makes the yellowing problem worse. 

Now, I suspect that this all boils down to the colour temperature of the screen being set too high. Default for many LCDs is 9500k and colour looks better 6500k or even 5000k. Unfortunately, my screen's firmware does not seem to have any place to manually set this. It doesn't say anything in the manual, I can't find anything in Win 7, hell, it doesn't even say anything on the manufacturer's website.

At this point it looks like I am going to be stuck returning this thing and sucking on the restocking fee unless anyone else has any suggestions. I am fucking pissed right now. God knows not a single fucking thing I ever buy seems to work right, no matter how bloody much research I do beforehand.

I have searched any number of phrase combinations on google for hours, colour temperature, Samsung, the model number windows 7, blah blah. Samsung also has a pile of little screen-widgets that I tried installing without success.

EDIT: The most annoying thing is that this review of a different monitor shows screenshots of a very similar firmware, only that version actually has a full colour temperature menu. FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF

[Mazian]

Tried cranking down the gamma?  My monitor is eye-searingly bright at default values, but not half bad at a uniform 0.83.  That also gives you another set of R/G/B sliders to play with if you're so inclined.

[Mongrel]

The gamma only has three crude settings "mode 1" "mode 2" and "mode 3", none of which really fix the problem. I wound up diddling with the gamma in Windows and also via my ATI drivers without really fixing the issue.

[Dooly]

When upgrading from a Radeon X1950 to a Radeon HD 7870, will I have to uninstall the old display drivers, or will the install program on the CD that comes with the new card just handle all that stuff by itself?

[Grath]

When upgrading from a Radeon X1950 to a Radeon HD 7870, will I have to uninstall the old display drivers, or will the install program on the CD that comes with the new card just handle all that stuff by itself?

Don't use the display drivers on the CD. Download the latest release of the drivers from ATI's website. Do so on a fairly regular basis (IE when they update) for best performance.

[Mongrel]

I have a 5770 and I can also agree that this is the better option.

[Dooly]

But if I shut off the computer, switch in the new card, and turn the computer back on, the display will still work before I install the new ATI drivers?

[Thad]

If nothing else, it should run with the default Windows VGA driver, at an ass-ugly resolution and color depth.  That should keep you long enough to get a current driver.  (AMD wisely puts the driver link right at the top of its homepage.)  Or, better yet, download the latest version of Catalyst first, stick it on your desktop or somewhere else easily-accessible, and run it as soon as you've got the new card in.

I'd probably uninstall the old driver first just to be on the safe side.  Generally if you update Catalyst it'll take out the old version, but I haven't made the kind of version jump that you are before.  (It appears you'll be going from 10.x to 13.x.)

[Dooly]

Oh my dear sweet Jesus this thing works so good 

Before

After

[Grath]

Oh my dear sweet Jesus this thing works so good 

Before

After

Welcome to real graphics.

I upgraded to a GTX 560 Ti at the same time that Crysis 2 went on sale. I bought it just because

[Thad]

I've mentioned before that I've had to underclock my GTX 570 to keep it from BSoDing me.

Still managed to lock up a game of Half-Life under Linux the other day.  HALF-LIFE.

[Grath]

I've mentioned before that I've had to underclock my GTX 570 to keep it from BSoDing me.

Still managed to lock up a game of Half-Life under Linux the other day.  HALF-LIFE.

My 560 Ti's been working pretty nice, especially for one I got slightly-used on the cheap - but I only run Windows there, I have a separate desktop for Linux.

[Beat Bandit]

This may not be quite the right thread, but after three separate purchases and nothing that seems to refer specifically to this issue does anyone know one way or the other if play-n-charge cables work through a PC?

Just to clarify, I'm not trying to use a 360 wireless controller through the cable. I have a pc controller and a wireless receiver, but can't manage to charge the battery. When the PnC cable is connected the 360 icon on the controller lights up but the LED on the connecting piece of the charge cable doesn't do anything, and the battery doesn't hold a charge. Though I have been able to use it while it is actively plugged in, so it's getting some level of power.

[JDigital]

As far as I know, the play-n-charge doesn't let you use the Xbox controller on the PC. It just uses the USB to charge; you need a separate wireless adaptor. That's why I bought a wired Xbox controller to use on the PC.

[R^2]

Don't do it! 

The USB cable is, yes, for charging only. But the wireless adapters are utter shit; I struggled with one for weeks before I went out and bought a PC USB controller. I'd sync the controller to the adapter, sit the adapter on my desk, and hold the controller not three inches above the adapter -- it'd still drop the signal after five or ten minutes.

[JDigital]

That's the other reason why I bought a wired Xbox controller to use on the PC.

[Thad]

Don't do it! 

The USB cable is, yes, for charging only. But the wireless adapters are utter shit; I struggled with one for weeks before I went out and bought a PC USB controller. I'd sync the controller to the adapter, sit the adapter on my desk, and hold the controller not three inches above the adapter -- it'd still drop the signal after five or ten minutes.

Mine worked when I first set it up, then I didn't use it for a few months and now it doesn't work at all -- doesn't even light up.  It is, of course, out of warranty now.

So yeah, echoing the "Don't do it" sentiment.  For PC controllers I'd recommend Logitech.  I've had a Cordless Rumblepad 2 for like 7 years now and it's a great damn controller (D-pad it a little mushy but still better than the Xbox one); I haven't used the Wireless Gamepad F710 but it looks like basically the same controller updated to work with Xinput and Logitech's universal wireless adapter (meaning you don't need a separate dongle for every piece of Logitech gear you have, they'll all work off one dongle).

If you're okay with wired controllers, the F310 appears to be the same thing with a wire for half the price.  But if you're going the wired route you've got a million damn options -- NES controller, SNES controller, PS1 or PS2 controller, and so on.

[Thad]

Man I have had some fucking weirdness with package breakage ever since I started on this whole OpenSUSE thing.  Files get inexplicably corrupted and I have to force reinstall packages.  For some reason LibreOffice is affected the most by this; it's failed on me and required a reinstallation several times already this week, most recently crashing in the middle of my editing an open spreadsheet and then giving me the inexplicable error "cannot execute binary file" when I tried to start it again.

I suspect physical corruption on the hard drive (since it seems localized to one partition and very specific to one app suite that would presumably be stored around the same physical location), but I'm not sure if SSD's work quite like that.  There doesn't seem to be a decent defrag tool for ext4, and I haven't looked into surface scan tools yet.  (My recollection from the last time I had a similar problem is that it's not as straightforward under Linux as Windows.  Surprising, right?)

For now I've ripped LO3.x out entirely and am trying 4.0 from the Unstable repo.  On the off chance that it's just a problem with the package and the Unstable version will actually be more stable.


-- MEANWHILE --

I've been getting terrible Internet service over the past few weeks (which always seems to happen right around the time they raise my rates), exacerbated by infuriating behavior from Firefox.  I don't know what the fuck's causing it, but it's as if once it starts timing out on pages, it keeps doing it even if the bandwidth situation gets better.  Like, it'll just sit there with a spinning throbber when I'm trying to access my router or even CUPS on localhost.  Quitting and restarting fixes it.

[Brentai]

I have an F710 and don't like it very much, but it's kind of in that aggravating "worst option except for all the others" area.  The build quality is just not very good, the buttons are sticky and edgy and the whole thing feels like the thing is a hollow shell waiting to crack.  But I did mash my way through two Ys games on the thing with no problem, so it does hold up well enough.

If you have a PS3 controller my suggestion is to just go with that, the drivers are a bit weird but not as terrible as people say they are.  Failing that, sure, Logitech.

[Beat Bandit]

As far as I know, the play-n-charge doesn't let you use the Xbox controller on the PC. It just uses the USB to charge; you need a separate wireless adaptor.

Just to clarify, I'm not trying to use a 360 wireless controller through the cable. I have a pc controller and a wireless receiver, but can't manage to charge the battery.

But the wireless adapters are utter shit; I struggled with one for weeks before I went out and bought a PC USB controller.

Apparently the receivers are very clearly an xbox product, in that they will overheat to the point where the wiring unsolders itself. This happened to my original receiver and started the snowball of investment that lead to me getting another charge kit instead of giving up.

For PC controllers I'd recommend Logitech.  ...  NES controller, SNES controller, PS1 or PS2 controller, and so on.

If you have a PS3 controller my suggestion is to just go with that, the drivers are a bit weird but not as terrible as people say they are.  Failing that, sure, Logitech.

I do have multiple PS3 controllers I usually default to. I'm just lazy enough that since most games have native support for the 360, if anything, that I like having one on hand to whip out and not need to worry about running any background programs or trying to rebind inputs.

It's frustrating how easy it is to automatically hit L1 / R1 for a trigger when the default conversion makes it L2 / R2.

No update on getting anything to work though, or even anyone else who has this exact problem online. Just a lot of people demanding the usb power cord work to transmit data. Guess that was another twenty bucks down the microsoft hole.