Yeah, I think I liked it for all the same reasons The Internet hated it. It's completely the opposite of what we were led to expect.
But really, we just came off TWO action-packed regenerations LAST MONTH. As I said, trying to top that would have been foolish (and a total Davies thing to do -- he was the guy who always tried to top the last thing he did, and met with failure as often as success -- though in his defense, End of Time was a pretty high note to go out on, both for him and for Tennant).
Seeing more evidence that the Doctor ISN'T the battle-hardened general he's made out to be was just right. All that shit's going down right outside his window, but it's not a battle, it's a siege. And the Doctor abides.
I'll agree on the problematic characterizations of women. (I have to say Amy is my second-favorite companion of the entire '05-present run -- though it probably says something in and of itself that #1 is her husband.) Clara hasn't really distinguished herself from a character perspective; I liked her as much in this episode as I ever have, but she was really hitting the same plot beats Rose did in Parting of the Ways, with the ending swapped out for Martha in Last of the Time Lords. (A lot better than the latter, obviously, and much more narratively coherent. And while Bleeding Cool called it another Power of Love ending, there's an entirely more cynical interpretation -- [spoiler]the Time Lords just rescued the only person who can get them out of limbo.[/spoiler])
I think when the Time Lords do come back, though, we'll be spending a bit less time on showing them as evil or misguided all the time -- after all, wouldn't be much of a victory in rescuing them if they're all still assholes.
I'm thinking Moffat will either ignore the "trapped in a single moment" bit, or explain it away with a one-liner (the cracks in time did it). Thousands of years have passed on Gallifrey, Rassilon's out of power and his successors have had time to look back on the Time War as a pretty bad idea and come to think of the Doctor sticking them in a pocket universe as the merciful act it was (though you have to figure they were probably pretty pissed off at first).